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Archaeology at Croft Castle, Herefordshire

(Keith Ray, Herefordshire County Archaeologist.)

Summary

In many ways, the Croft Castle estate is a remote and enigmatic property. Occupying a prominent ridge above the valley of the river Lugg in north Herefordshire, it encompasses woodland, parkland and bracken-covered common that provides sweeping views to the Black Mountains, and is home to woodcock and ravens.

It is no less mysterious a place historically, since although the Croft family have been in residence at the castle for the best part of a millennium (with a major hiatus from the 1740s to the 1920s), few records exist for the management of the estate. Reviewing what was known archaeologically, it was decided that some effort needed to be made to explore the undoubted potential. Since 2001 therefore, an innovative, collaborative programme of archaeological survey and investigation has developed here between The National Trust and Herefordshire Archaeology, Herefordshire Council's county archaeological service. Two years into the project, the discoveries made to date have already caused major re-interpretation of the castle’s historic development and archaeological importance.
The Chestnut Avenue at Croft

Background

The first recorded archaeological observation about Croft was that by John Aubrey in his Monumenta Britannica (1674?) where he noted that a large double-ditched camp, 'the Ambry', was to be found within 'Crofts-parke'. The first archaeological fieldwork in recent years was also at Croft Ambrey hillfort. This was the campaign of investigation by Stan Stanford of Birmingham University Extra-Mural Department between 1960 and 1966 (published as the monograph Croft Ambrey in 1974).

The aim in developing an archaeological programme for the Croft Estate was, from the outset in 2000, to conduct a full survey of the estate lands, and to devise a programme of closer investigation of the house environs and of the prehistoric landscape surrounding Croft Ambrey. Two years on, the survey is complete, and the exploration of the close environs of the mansion is at an advanced stage. The prehistoric project, meanwhile, is still at the planning stage.

Croft Estate Survey

In 2000 the Croft Estate comprised 560 hectares of ground that has recently been expanded with the purchase of further former estate ground near Lucton. Two winter seasons of archaeological survey across the estate in 2001 and 2002 have demonstrated the remarkable preservation of earthwork remains across the five kilometre east-west extent of the estate. The major divisions of the area include now heavily planted land leased to the Forestry Commission, open common and former coppices, the parkland in the environs of the mansion, the surviving wood-pasture in and around Croft Ambrey, and arable fields and pasture on the lower slopes.

The Ambrey

The prehistoric farmsteads and field systems that survive here have now been extensively documented, and understanding of the complexity of Croft Ambrey itself has increased dramatically. For instance, a huge area of north-facing hillside within the defences of the fort appears to have been deliberately scarped by the Iron Age community to create stances and terraces for structures. What had been described as an 'annexe' to the fort was found to be a primary element of the enclosure sequence, with a length of west-facing bank and ditch cut through by the later massive defences. The inner entrance above the south-western outer gateway excavated by Stanford seems to have been made much more elaborate in its later phases, to make this one of the most heavily fortified entrances to a hillfort known anywhere in Britain.

One of the most interesting findings in Stanford's excavations was a complex and long-lived shrine, mainly of Romano-British date, sited on the slope outside the highest inner rampart. The possibility has emerged also that a series of earthworks on the inner scarp of the interior quarry ditch of this same rampart are of Romano-British date. As such they may represent the presence of further shrines, indicating that after abandonment, the site became an important focus for continuing religious activity.

New detail can also be added to what is known of the late medieval or early post-medieval use of the hillfort within Croft Castle's deer-park. While the pillow-mounds at the site were already well known, the recent survey has revealed what appears to be a warrener's house within its own enclosure below the fort, and traces of saw-pits on one of the outer banks.

Bircher Common

Meanwhile, other unusual features have been found elsewhere during the survey, that throw light on activities that have yet to be documented well within the county. An example from Bircher Common is provided by small earthen platforms sited close to streams. These platforms may mark the sites of medieval transhumant farming shelters. Besides these traces, up to a dozen sets of earthworks belonging to small homestead-type complexes of the post-medieval period have also been located on the Common. The traces are the remains of houses and barns within small enclosures, in one case with their lazy-bed cultivation plots surviving fossilised within an outer enclosure. Elsewhere on the Common are the extant earthwork remains of no fewer than four sub-rectangular farmstead enclosures of presumed late prehistoric or Romano-British date, with traces of their contemporary fields.

Parkland at Croft and the Fishpool Valley

In the parkland surrounding the Croft Castle mansion, a series of landscape park features belonging to the C18th park have been located. A well-preserved length of the southern boundary of the earlier deer-park has been recognised, and, within later ornamental woodland, traces of two successive brickfields used to prduce both brick and tile for major construction phases of the mansion. In Fishpool Valley a whole network of carriage rides created along with the landscape park has also been recorded. As the valley became over-planted, the rides were abandoned. A clear sequence is evident from the way in which the course of these rides is cut by quarries and charcoal-burning platforms. The number of these latter recorded in the survey indicates very clearly the scale of charcoal preparation required locally to feed the forge at nearby Bringewood near Ludlow from the 1650s onwards.
Reconstruction of charcoal burning
© Bryan Byron

The survey therefore provides a datum for future study, but more particular concerns in reference to management are the establishment of evidence for former planting patterns, and the possible restoration of areas of former wood pasture.

The Croft Castle Environs Project

The more detailed investigations planned in 2000 included work in the immediate environs of the castle. This was to feature exploration of the historic formal gardens, location of the site of medieval castle that may have preceded the existing mansion, and identification of structures that were featured in early estate plans but are no longer present.

Thanks in no small measure to support from The National Trust's Regional Historic Buildings Adviser, Jeffrey Haworth, Herefordshire Archaeology had a successful field season in September 2001 celebrating the Trust's 'Gardens Year' by exploring the 'lost' formal gardens. The site of these gardens can be traced to the south and west of the mansion as earthwork features resulting from the demolition works that swept them away in the mid 1700s.

The mansion itself has long been supposed to have had medieval origins, with an Elizabethan/Jacobean house built within the shell of a stone-built curtain-walled castle. Recent study by Herefordshire Archaeology staff, and independently by the historic buildings consultant Richard Morriss for The National Trust, has found no evidence to support this view. Rather, it was in 2001 thought more likely that the mansion was built anew sometime in the period 1590-1630, with decorative corner turrets and castellations. As such it was thought to belong to a wider tradition of the building of 'Spenserian' corner-turreted pseudo-Gothic stately houses by late Elizabethan and early Jacobean grandees. Early examples of this fashion include Stiffkey Hall, Norfolk (1576-90), Thorpe Salvin, Yorkshire, 1582, and Longford Castle, Wiltshire (1591). Later ones include Lulworth Castle, Dorset (1608), and Ruperra, Glamorgan (1626).
Artists impression of the layout of the formal gardens as they may have appeared c.1690
© Bryan Byron

Garden archaeology, 2001: A first season of investigations

In September 2001, then, three weeks of investigation and fifteen small trenches revealed the mode of construction (and later demolition) of the formal gardens that once provided the immediate setting of the mansion. The sequence was elucidated in large part thanks to advice during a site inspection visit of the excavations from a group of specialists. These included Paul Stamper of English Heritage, David Whitehead of the Hereford and Worcester Gardens Trust, Brian Dix of Northamptonshire Archaeology (the excavator of Kirby Hall and of The Privy Garden at Hampton Court Palace), David Jacques of De montfort University, Leicester,and the Trust's own Historic Gardens Adviser, Katie Fretwell.

1590-1630

The earliest phase was found to comprise terrace-gardens to the south, and south-west of the house. The stone revetment wall of the south garden was revealed in a trench cut perpendicular to the earthwork scarp that marks its former course. The line of the now truncated revetment is evident from parching of the grass locally, and this was confirmed also by geophysical survey.

These early gardens were thought therefore most likely also to belong to the period 1590-1630. A metalled path had been carefully constructed along the terrace edge next to the revetment wall on the south side of the house. In the final week of the 2001 season, a series of foundation-deposits utilising the debris of demolished structures were revealed below the later formal gardens. These deposits included late sixteenth-century brick, mortar, ashlar blocks, and clay and also stone roof-tiles. Some late sixteenth-century finewares were present, as well as metalwork from window casements.

1660-1680

An elongated sloping garden with a level lower terrace-edge replaced the south terrace garden, probably in the period 1660-1680. This garden was walled, most likely with brick, on stone footings to east and west, and a terrace revetment wall to the south. Within this garden, at least one circular planting-bed was located, cut into the limestone bedrock that outcrops close to the surface here. A semi-circular stair was built onto the centre-point of the south terrace of this sloping garden, possibly as a prelude to further landscaping that involved introduction of soil upslope, and the creation of another, shorter, sloping garden to the south.

The stone foundation of the semi-circular stair was found in the excavations, and finely-dressed pieces of the local limestone that once formed the curving steps themselves were found in the rockery within the nineteenth-century walled garden to the north-west of the castle. Beyond the upper sloping garden to the west were found wide grooves cut into the bedrock, perhaps to provide soil depth for the bedding in of soft fruit trees such as apricots. Most of these features had been evident from aerial photographs taken during drought conditions in the summer of 1995.

1700-1710

The lower sloping garden also terminated in a level terrace, but this has retained its original form, having been constructed entirely as an earthwork without revetment walling. A divided grassed ramp leading down to the dam between two formal pools and into the southern formal broadwalk is thought most likely to date between 1700 and 1710. It therefore seems most likely that this southern sloping garden, and a parallel east garden continuously sloping southwards from Croft Church, together with an attached curving prospect walk, were added during a major expansion of the garden in these years.

Medieval traces

Beneath all these features were found traces of medieval activity. This included fish-ponds in a side-valley that had previously been thought to have contained a formal cascade to the west of the garden. There were also finds of fragments of medieval domestic wares, and pits containing stone demolition deposits (but no brick and mortar or other post-medieval material) sealed at depth beneath the later garden features.

‘Lost buildings of Croft’, 2002: a second season of investigations

The fieldwork in 2001 was designed as the first of three investigative seasons intended to improve our understanding of the development of the castle and its near environs. The presence of numbers of pieces of decorative and structural medieval stonework in dumps to the north of the house supports the thesis that the medieval house at Croft Castle (replaced by the turreted mansion) approximated to a small and simple, curtain-walled manorial complex. This would have been similar to nearby Stokesay Castle in Shropshire.

Work in August and September 2002 to the west of the castle was designed in part to try to locate buried traces of this structure. However, there are other 'lost' buildings at Croft, including the neo-Classical pedimented structure shown on Ross' c.1790 aquatint (see figure) located to the north-east of the mansion. The foundations of this building appear to be faintly discernible during parched conditions. A rectangular structure is shown here on an estate map of 1798, but it had been swept away by the time that the neo-Gothic curtain wall had been built, and the new curving approach drive had been constructed, by 1825.

A detached dining hall and possible orangery

This was the first area to be opened up in 2002. The excavation revealed that a substantial building supported by squared timber posts and with brick drains set into a cobbled floor had been built here in the earlier C18th. This was then superceded later in the same century by the building shown on the Ross aquatint. This has a larger and at least one smaller room with raised timber floors. It is supposed that the building was therefore some kind of detached dining hall. Running eastwards for at least 40 metres from its eastern gable there had once stood an orangery or plant house with a brick-built heated north cavity wall. This building had already been demolished by 1798, according to the evidence of the estate plan of that date.

Garden walls and statue plinths

West of the castle, further traces of the gardens of 1700-10 were found, in the form of the stone-built basal courses of garden walls, a foundation for the plinth for a statue, and an artificial earthen terrace. Some localised subsidence had been made good by the dumping of deposits of late seventeenth century brick and window glass. The deposit was dated by the inclusion of a near-complete stamped clay pipe made locally at Pipe Aston between the years 1690 and 1710. The window glass included hundreds of fragments of small window panes made from opaque glass. However, it also included numerous large pieces from medieval stained glass windows, presumably re-used in the later casements.

Below this dump deposit was found a sterile yellow clay deposit. When this had been removed, a marked depression was noted running obliquely across the excavated area. This was found to follow the line of a robbed-out wall foundation. In the back-fill of this robber trench there were numerous pieces of carefully dressed stone from a large medieval arch, along with other moulded pieces of medieval stonework. This was an important find, since it appeared to bear out the theory that we had developed, that the medieval Croft Castle perhaps once stood to the west or north-west of the present castle, at a greater distance than at present, from the parish church of St. Michael. Meanwhile, across the whole of the excavated area dumps of late sixteenth century brick and tile were found. A deposit of mortar below these dumps nearby was thought initially to represent a medieval floor level.

Dendrochonology lends a hand…

It was at this point that the results of dendrochronology of timbers from the present mansion were received from Ian Tyers of Sheffield University. This latter work has been conducted in concert with historic buildings recording by Richard Morriss. The mansion is built around a central courtyard, and once featured a northwards-projecting service wing. The tree-ring chronology produced a clear indication that not only the roofs of all four ranges of the mansion, but also the basement level of the north range, and the service range (of which part of one bay survives) were built in 1662-3.

Towards the end of the 2002 season, the excavation revealed the 1.5m high foundations of a substantial north-south wall. This mirrored the robbed foundation trench in profile, and the large stone course-work continued to a lower level in its west elevation than to the east. From this, it was deduced that the structure had once comprised the eastern wall of the undercroft of a medieval hall. This wall had been deliberately truncated southwards, and abutting the western side of its new terminus a fine east-west wall had been built, the meticulous course-work of which still stood to over a metre high. Immediately southwards from this wall, all trace of medieval deposits had been removed. Material demolished from this wall included the upper and lower mouldings of a high quality two- or three-light mullioned stone window.

An Elizabethan mansion converted from a medieval castle

It appears that this later wall therefore represents a conversion of the medieval castle into a fine if small-scale late Elizabethan mansion, presumably in Sir James Croft's time. Sir James had been Comptroller of the Queen's Household, and died in 1590. This is therefore the building (a medieval fortified manor/small castle, converted into a modest Elizabethan mansion) that we can now assume was badly damaged in the Civil War, after Sir William Croft became the only Head of a leading Herefordshire family to have been killed in battle. Traces of burned timbers, however, represent the demolition of this compromised structure, and the mortar floor was revealed to be a mortar-mixing surface when the ruins of the damaged house were used as a workshop area for the building of the new mansion in 1662-3.

Some conclusions

T

he fieldwork reported here has transformed our understanding of the sequence and significance of buildings past and present at Croft Castle. It has moreover set them in the wider context of the development of the formal gardens and landscape park in the period c.1570 - 1800.

By the end of the 2002 season, both an inner and an outer ward of the medieval castle had been located with a moderate degree of confidence. Traces of narrow ditches and pits lines beneath the later demolition deposits and workshop area appear to indicate the presence of timber structures that represent an early (and possibly timber) phase of the castle. The mortuary Inventory for Sir James Croft in 1590 survives in a fragmentary state in the British Library. Research by Valerie Goodbury indicates that the rooms listed include both a hall and a chapel. A glazed heraldic floor tile fragment from the excavation matches those now partially flooring the parish church, and this, as well as the stained glass, may have derived from this chapel.

The excavation clearly indicates that we can trust the dendrochronology to specify the date of construction of the present mansion. This therefore means that the earliest terraced garden of the Elizabethan period belongs to the demolished mansion. Moreover, the Restoration period formal garden clearly used in its basal layers brick and tile (and other) demolition material from the same mansion, while being planned outwards from the present mansion.

Perhaps the most remarkable conclusion from the 2002 season's investigations concerns the present mansion. Herbert Croft, the second son of the Sir William killed in the Civil War, was a renowned cleric. He famously shamed Parliamentary soldiery intent on defiling Hereford Cathedral when Dean there, and was praised for his sober manner, by John Aubrey in his Brief Lives. It is no doubt of some significance that Herbert was appointed Bishop of Hereford in 1661. It was said that he used Croft as his country home when in the county, but not in residence at Hereford. As such, not only is Croft Castle a late addition to the corpus of Spenserian mansions, but it is also an unusual example of a mid-seventeenth century bishop's palace.
Croft Castle and its church